Denim Takes a Sartorial Direction at Denim PV in Berlin

Denim PV in Berlin last week set the stage for what's next in denim fashion. Mills and manufacturers showcased Fall/Winter 2024-2025 concepts that key into emerging trends and build on proven bestsellers.

Isko's trend-setting prowess shines in the Boundless Collection, its ongoing collaboration with PG founder Paolo Gnutti. The F/W 24-25 Isko Luxury by PG line culls inspiration from cities around the world while focusing on designs that do not require complicated finishing in the laundry.

"I have focused on reducing the laundry stages, by relying more on laser technology and [the] latest generation chemicals, which greatly decrease water consumption, are truly eco-friendly and speed up the production processes," Gnutti said. "Isko Luxury by PG collections share with Isko collections a deep-rooted sustainable culture. It is our daily mission to create excellent, long-lasting fashion while respecting the environment and the people who live in it."

Starting in Venice, passing through New York, arriving in Tokyo, and continuing to the Maldives, the Boundless Collection takes denim fans on a journey.

Casanova Denim tells a story inspired by Venetian jacquard fabrics constructed from precious yarns like gold, silver and silk. Gold and silver are the foundation of these fabrics which use lasers in the laundry process to "recreate the splendor of a bygone era." Bronze, gold and silver are also key to Reef Denim, a line of fabrics elevated with flocked and customized 3D designs.

Colored foils create sparkling, luminous, and unique effects in Disko Denim. The concept sources inspiration from the fun and eclectic world of 1970s clubs. Peach Denim offers fabrics with velvety, silky and rich coating that can create a broad range of fabrics spanning vintage to clean looks.

Meanwhile, Isko's regular collection included Isko Catwalk, a range of fabrics with leather-like coatings, fancy textures and luminescent non-indigo colors that speak to denim's place on the runway. The mill meets the market demand for comfort with Isko Cosy. The double-textured hybrid fabrics have an authentic denim exterior with a sherpa lining, providing protection from the wind and cold.

Italian mill Berto brought a tight collection of unwashed fabric to tempt brands to change the industry standard: aggressive washes. A highlight is indigo denim with gold foil layered under blue flocking. Left raw, the fabric has a lush velvet look; lasered or washed, more gold and indigo is revealed.

Berto's fabrics were used in the BlueTailoring exhibition at the show curated by designer and author Stefano Chiassai. The one-of-a-kind garments mixed denim with velvet, organza, sheepskin, knitwear and Prince of Wales checks. Embroideries, jacquard-effect laser designs and fancy weaves elevated the fabrics.

Fabrics with metallic gold and silver coatings were hero products in Realtek's collection. The mill showed the statement pieces such as pull-on pants made in both 100 percent cotton and 100 percent Tencel options.

Foison leaned into the glam trend as well with its Black Label collection. Leather-like coatings, embossing, metallic finishes and Lurex added sheen and shimmer to black, ecru and indigo fabrics.

Silver coatings, Ikat-inspired bleaching effects and overdyes were part of Denim Art Tekstil's collection. The Turkish manufacturer showcased a variety of fashion concepts including denim-on-denim patchwork, raw waistbands, cargo skirts and jeans and monochromatic color-blocked workwear pieces. Thin silver chains were also used to create a zig-zag pattern around pockets.

Chanel-owned manufacturer Fashion Art combined different laser treatments and pieced panels of fabrics with different washes to add dimension to denim. Flocking, embossed rhombus effects and all-over floral embroidery tapped into the baroque theme trending for F/W 24-25, while dark and light wash camouflage jacquards offered an elevated take on workwear. Pink overdyed denim and yellow reactive yarn-dyed fabrics injected color into the Italian company's assortment.

Prosperity Textile introduced Slate Gray, a new blue-gray casted denim that can achieve a wide range of shades. The color is also applied to shirting fabrications. Other new colors include Sage Green and Graphite, a blue with black sulfur dye by Archroma.

Chottani showcased its 2022 UN Global Compact award-winning collection that supports Pakistani flood victims. Block-printed with natural dyes by members of the community affected by the flood, the garments are an example of how the manufacturer combines traditional and modern techniques.

Another sartorial highlight was a 100 percent cotton black denim suit with a subtle laser-printed pattern. Intricate needlework that took artisans three days to complete blanketed the unique pieces.

Chottani also offered new ways to upcycle waste such as silk and modal scarves trimmed with tassels made from scrap denim threads. Embroidery and crystal embellishments elevated detachable collars made from scrap fabrics. The company also partnered with Japanese designers to create an installation of mannequins at the show—each made from a patchwork of excess fabrics.

Customizable jacquards are a specialty for Kilim Denim. Clients can select from a range of existing designs, or the Turkish mill can turn an original design or logo pattern into a unique fabric.

Haseller Tekstil took a fresh approach to Y2K denim with colorful and printed fabrics that have a paper touch. The Turkish mill achieved the techy texture with recycled polyester and elastane constructions and PU coatings—perfect for in-demand cargo and parachute pants.

Haseller was also influenced by Japanese workwear for a second collection called Iconics. Here, waxed canvases and striped and herringbone indigo fabrics provide a foundation for traditional workwear silhouettes like chore jackets and carpenter jeans.

Heritage designs inspired Sharabati Denim's Loomers collection, a line of fabrics made on restored RUTI selvedge denim looms. The looms produce four meters of denim per hour, resulting in fabrics that have a naturally soft touch and a tight, dense weave.

To contrast, Sharabati's Kaldiscope collection offers fabrics with special coatings, sheens, textures, colors and prints. The Turkish mill also showed Ink23, its darkest pure indigo that creates fabrics with a glimmering intensity and bright seams.

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